A restaurant named “The Happy Indian” might not sound too P.C., especially for a place that sits at the foot of a city abandoned by the Incas sometime before the Spanish invaded, but this is Aguas Calientes’s best restaurant. An attractive and friendly two-level place with lots of plants, it’s usually jam-packed with gringos, save the backpacker set. Even though its fixed-price menú is a great value, the restaurant qualifies as distinctly upscale in this ramshackle town. Nearly everyone opts for the three-course menú because ordering a la carte will get you basically the same thing at higher prices. Starters include quiche Lorraine and sopa a la criolla (Peruvian milk-based soup); the standout among main courses is the lemon or garlic trout. The ginger chicken is also quite nice, as are the desserts.